Record-Breaking Mountaineer Nirmal Purja Dies in Broad Peak Avalanche

KATHMANDU — Renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja, whose record-breaking ascents transformed the world of high-altitude climbing, has died after an avalanche struck an expedition on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, the company he founded confirmed Saturday.

Purja, a Nepal-born British citizen widely known as “Nimsdai,” was part of a team attempting the 8,051-meter peak in the Karakoram range when the avalanche occurred on July 30.

“Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” Elite Exped, the expedition company founded by Purja, said in a statement posted on Facebook.

The company also confirmed that other members of the expedition, including Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as “Yukta,” and Nima Sherpa, were killed in the accident. It added that additional expedition members also did not survive.

Nepal Prime Minister Balendra Shah expressed condolences, confirming that six Nepali climbers — Purja, Pur Bahadur Gurung, Kili Pemba Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Nawang Thindu Sherpa and Gyalu Sherpa — died in the avalanche, along with four foreign climbers.

Shah said the deaths had left the nation “deeply shocked and saddened.” While noting that the climbers’ physical journeys had come to an end, he said their courage, dedication and contributions would continue to inspire future generations and remain an enduring part of mountaineering history. He added that although mountains reward many climbers with the glory of reaching their summits, they sometimes embrace them forever, but mountaineers achieve immortality through their courage and commitment.

Purja had not originally planned to climb Broad Peak during his expedition to Pakistan. In a Facebook post on July 27, he explained that his initial goal was to climb Gasherbrum II. However, after reviewing his climbing record, he realized that summiting Broad Peak would leave only Cho Oyu to complete a historic second ascent of all 14 mountains higher than 8,000 meters — all without supplemental oxygen.

“This was never the plan,” Purja wrote. “Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8,000m summits. That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here, only one remains — Cho Oyu. Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen.”

The attempt ended in tragedy before that milestone could be achieved.

Earlier, Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, a member of Nepal’s House of Representatives and Purja’s business partner, said tracking data indicated Purja’s position shifted after the avalanche, suggesting he had been swept downhill before the signal eventually stopped.

Purja gained international recognition in 2019 through his “Project Possible” expedition, during which he climbed all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters in just over six months, breaking the previous record of nearly eight years.

Born in Nepal’s Dhaulagiri region and raised in Chitwan, Purja served 16 years in the military, including six years with the British Gurkhas and 10 years with the United Kingdom’s elite Special Boat Service, becoming the first Gurkha to join the special forces unit.

He began mountaineering only in 2012 after trekking to Everest Base Camp while on military leave. In 2018, he set another world record by climbing Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within five days.

Purja also became widely respected for leading numerous high-altitude rescue missions in the Himalayas, earning recognition not only for his mountaineering accomplishments but also for saving the lives of fellow climbers.

In its statement, Elite Exped described Purja as one of mountaineering’s greatest climbers whose leadership and achievements inspired millions around the world. The company said that beyond his records, Purja sought to demonstrate what could be achieved through determination and self-belief, encouraging others to dream bigger and challenge perceived limitations.